Potatoes are the most popular food of the Canary Islands-they grow twenty varieties, most of them ancient varieties-and the favorite way of cooking them is to boil them in their skins with a huge amount of salt until all the water has evaporated. They come out wrinkled and covered with a white powdery film. They have a firm but tender texture and intense potato flavor. Amazingly, they are not too salty, because the salt in the water has the effect of drawing out their juices rather than being absorbed (just be sure to look for potatoes with good, thick skins, because when the skins are too thin they end up salty). You are supposed to pick up the potatoes with your hands and dip them into the traditional sauces as you take bites.
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Make Ahead Tips
The potatoes can be made ahead and reheated in the oven before serving.
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