Returning from southern France last summer, I spied rows of beautiful blue cans of olive oil at the Nice airport. They looked like the essence of Provence and I longed to buy one, but I’d just spent my last few francs on a bottle of wine. When I found out that those blue cans are being imported to the United States, I couldn’t wait to try one. It turns out that what’s inside a can of Nicolas Alziari Huile d’Olive Vierge Extra is as enchanting as the container itself. Buttery is the best word I can use to describe this smooth, mellow oil. I used it, with just a touch of milk, to make the best mashed potatoes I’ve ever had. Its light herbal quality makes it a natural for summertime, and it’s the perfect partner for typically Niçoise ingredients like those in the White Bean Salad with Fresh Tuna Confit. To order, call Zingerman’s at 888-636-8162 or visit www.zingermans.com. A 1-liter tin is $32.