Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram YouTube Icon Navigation Search Icon Main Search Icon Video Play Icon Plus Icon Minus Icon Check Icon Print Icon Note Icon Heart Icon Filled Heart Icon Single Arrow Icon Double Arrow Icon Hamburger Icon TV Icon Close Icon Sorted Hamburger/Search Icon
How-To

Gelato from the Old School

Fine Cooking Issue 39
Photos: Judi Rutz
Save to Recipe Box
Print
Add Private Note
Saved Add to List

    Add to List

Print
Add Recipe Note

Master gelatiere Tommaso Affaldano has been serving up artful scoops of his Italian ice cream since the middle of the last century. But only since 1995, when he left his native Italy for Lookout Farm in Natick, Massachusetts, have Americans had the chance to sample his delicious handiwork. His dairy-based gelati (tiramisu and gianduja flavors, among others) are dense, creamy, and scant in butterfat—they contain no cream or eggs, just local organic milk—which makes them more about flavor intensity than richness. His fruit gelati contain no dairy at all, but they somehow combine the crisp, focused flavor of sorbet with the luxurious mouth feel of the smoothest ice cream. The key, says Tommaso as he tenderly rinses grit from a colander of raspberries, is to stay true to the old techniques and “to always respect the fruit.”

Great fruit gelato begins with fresh fruit.
After sorting through and measuring (by eye) a pile of just-picked raspberries, Tommaso purées the fruit with a sugar syrup using an oversize hand-held immersion blender.
He pours the mixture into a small, open-top gelato machine (circa 1975), whose spiral blade scrapes the raspberry mixture from the sides of a revolving canister. More often than not, a larger, newer, and more automated freezer sits dormant in the back room. Tommaso says the old machine gives him more of a hand in the process.
During the 15 minutes of freezing, the gelato thickens and pales as air is whipped in, but it’s still much denser than American ice cream. Tommaso uses an oar-like paddle to give an occasional stir and to move the 11-lb. batch to a serving tray.

Comments

Leave a Comment

Comments

Leave A Comment

Your email address will not be published.

Delicious Dish

Find the inspiration you crave for your love of cooking

Fine Cooking Magazine

Subscribe today
and save up to 44%

Already a subscriber? Log in.

Video

View All

Season 4 Extras

Season 4 Bonus Episode: New York City

Moveable Feast did not go to New York this season, but we couldn't skip the Big Apple completely! In this web-only episode, chef Francis Derby and cookbook author Aliya LeeKong…

View all Moveable Feast recipes and video extras

Connect

Follow Fine Cooking on your favorite social networks