First our kitchens were rocked by all-silicone bakeware, brilliantly stick-resistant and colorful but floppy. Then came another generation of silicone pans, thicker and sturdier yet failing to conduct heat as well as the old reliable metal. Now, Kaiser Bakeware has united silicone and metal for the best of both materials. The La Forme Perfect collection consists of steel bakeware lined with silicone. Cakes and breads released cleanly from the heavy-duty pans with only a light spray of oil or butter, and they also browned evenly and developed a nice crust. Absent are the bright colors of other silicone bakeware; this dark-gray lining matches the pan. Cost is $37 for a 10-inch loaf pan; $50 for a 9-cup Bundt; $64 for a 10- inch springform with a regular and a tube base. Buy them at KaiserBakeware.com.