For this seasonal cook, who divides her time between northern California and Provence, spring calls for light, colorful vegetable dishes after winter’s soups and hearty meat or bean stews. The seasonal approach is the basis of French country cooking, which relies on perfect produce rather than exotic ingredients or complicated techniques. Her spring dinner menu is vegetarian, simply because spring vegetables are so outstanding. But, she warns us, “A vegetarian meal is not just a collection of vegetable dishes minus the meat.” Special attention must be paid to providing a full range of colors, textures, and flavors. Featured recipes: Butter Lettuce, Watercress & Parsley with Lemon Vinaigrette; Spring Vegetable Navarin; Rosemary-Scented Morels; Galettes of Spring Greens with Goat Cheese & Marjoram; and Fresh Cherry Clafoutis.