During the depths of winter, spinach is an especially cheering dose of green, a comforting reminder that spring is just around the corner. And as well as being a great way to bring some green into your life in winter, the good news is that good spinach is increasingly available year-round.
The most versatile of cooking greens, spinach is great blanched and creamed, sautéed with brown butter, or wilted and tossed with pasta. Or don't cook it at all: the spinach salad opposite does double-duty as a fresh and tender pizza topping.
Flat-leafed or savoyed
With one quick pass of the knife, bunched spinach is easy to trim.
Spinach grows best during the cool weather of spring and fall, when it's available everywhere. The winter crops we see generally come from California, Texas, and Florida, while in the summer, production is limited to the coolest growing areas, like the foggy northern California coast.
At the market, look for fresh-looking, brightly colored leaves. Avoid wilted or yellowing leaves. Fresh spinach keeps well for two or three days sealed in a plastic bag in the fridge. Carefully inspect spinach sold in cellophane bags; don't buy any that's slimy, yellowed, or shriveled. And don't think that frozen spinach will be anything but a pale imitation of fresh.
Unless the leaves are very young, spinach should be stemmed. Be sure to remove the especially tough stems of savoyed spinach.
Some spinach leaves are smooth and flat, while others are crinkled or "savoyed." Both kinds are delicious, and both can be young and tender, but you may find that the savoyed needs extra washing to get rid of the last traces of grit nestled in its crinkles. Because of its crinkles, however, the savoyed stuff has more body and tends to ship better.
You'll find fresh spinach sold either in bunches or in loose leaves. Loose leaves, easiest to find at greenmarkets or farmstands (and in bags at some supermarkets), come either large or small. Use the large leaves for cooking; save the smaller ones for salads.