By Randall Grahm
University of California Press, $34.95
Randall Grahm has been called the Willy Wonka of the wine world—and the comparison is apt. With his wines and his writings, Grahm, founder of California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard, veers way off the beaten path, often poking fun at his own industry. Yet, beneath all the zaniness and satire, Grahm is an idealist who passionately loves great wine. This collection of “Doonian” ephemera, plucked from the winery’s semiannual newsletter, features Grahm’s hilarious literary parody, silly song lyrics, serious articles and essays, and a variety of marketing gimmickry. Grahm’s erudite writing is best sipped slowly, but collectively the pieces in this book offer a most entertaining course in oenology and an honest portrayal of one man’s search for true originality and terroir.