A Relaxed Dinner of Fall Flavors

Earthy favorites with a twist: bacon-wrapped beef tenderloin, endive with pears & walnuts, and celery & apple purée

by Katy Sparks

I'm convinced that for me, entertaining at home is long on fun and short on stress because when I plan the menu I focus on simple dishes that can be prepared in advance, but are elevated to invite-your-friends special with unexpected twists. For instance, filet of beef is a real crowd pleaser that takes well to earthy flavors, so I added wild mushrooms and, for a tangy accent, cider and cider vinegar. Celery root purée is an earthy and delicious alternative to mashed potatoes on the side. And because beef filet is rich, I chose a salad that was light yet had some savory touches: blue cheese and crunchy spiced walnuts. For dessert, individual butterscotch custards, which are made ahead, are perfect because I find that once you sit down to dinner, you want to stay with your guests.

the menu

Menu Timeline

Two days ahead

Order the filet of beef.
Buy the pears and blue cheese; let them ripen.
Find sources for less common ingredients (sherry vinegar, wild mushrooms, celery root).

The day before

Make the custards.
Make the spice-candied nuts.
Make the salad dressing.
Make the sauce for the filet.

That morning

Wrap the filet in bacon and tie it.
Wash and dry the greens.
Slice the cheese.

Two hours before serving

Make the purée; keep warm over a water bath.
Whip the cream for the custards; keep chilled in a cheesecloth-lined strainer over a bowl.
Heat the oven.

One hour before

Roast the filet.

Just before serving

Reheat the sauce gently as the filet rests.
Assemble the salads.

Shopping List

Fresh Produce

2 large celery roots (about 4 lb. total)
1 small head frisée or curly endive (curly chicory)
1 small head Bibb or Boston lettuce
2 large heads Belgian endive or 2 small bunches watercress
2 ripe Bartlett or Anjou pears
1 apple (preferably Winesap, Granny Smith or Braeburn)
3 medium shallots
3 oz. cremini mushrooms
3 oz. shiitake mushrooms
3 oz. oyster mushrooms
4 large sprigs fresh rosemary
8 sprigs fresh mint
1 lemon

Meat, Eggs & Dairy

3-1/2- to 4-lb. whole beef tenderloin
4 to 6 oz. apple-smoked bacon, sliced medium thick
1 dozen large eggs
1-1/2 pints heavy cream
2 sticks unsalted butter
1 cup milk
1/4 lb. Gorgonzola or Roquefort

Other Groceries

3-1/2 oz. walnut halves
1-1/2 cups low-salt canned beef broth
3/4 cup dry red wine
3/4 cup apple cider
1/4 cup Scotch whisky
1 whole nutmeg

Pantry Staples

1-1/2 cups packed dark brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbs. cider vinegar
2 Tbs. sherry vinegar
1 tsp. ground coriander
1/4 tsp. ground star anise or anise seed
Kosher salt
Black peppercorns

Drink Suggestions- This delicious and uncomplicated menu calls for wines along the same theme. To get the meal off to just the right start, try a light, crisp sparkling wine; it’s a great apéritif and can segue right into the first-course salad. The nonvintage Domaine J. Laurens Blancs de Blancs Brut ($12) from southwestern France, or the nonvintage Roederer Estate Brut ($18) from California’s Anderson Valley in Mendocino are two good choices. The baconwrapped filet with wild mushroom sauce calls for a red with depth, concentrated fruit, and soft, polished tannins. I like the 2000 Penfolds Thomas Hylands Shiraz from Australia ($15) and the 1998 Errazuriz Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($25) from Chile. The butterscotch pudding includes a touch of Scotch whisky, and while the intense flavors and the alcohol in spirits can prove to be-a challenge when choosing a dessert wine, it needn’t stop you from sipping a little something alongside if you want. A wee dram-of Drambuie ($45), a heather-honey–based liqueur with a-touch of Scottish malt whisky, would be a great partner for this rich-and tasty dessert. Tim Gaiser, a master sommelier, is a contributing editor to Fine-Cooking. He lives in San Francisco.