By April Bloomfield
If you don’t think “vegetables” when you think of April Bloomfield, you’re not to blame. As she puts it herself in her new book’s introduction, “I’ve developed a bit of a reputation for meat, particularly the odd parts.” But the British chef, who burst onto the American food scene when she opened The Spotted Pig in New York City, also loves her veg. Recipes are organized, if you can call it that, in chapters by season (with titles like Put a Spring Into Your Step), by vegetable (potatoes, for instance, get their own chapter), and by dish or ingredient (Satisfying Salads, and Vegetables and Cream). This being Bloomfield, whose first, highly acclaimed book, A Girl and Her Pig, celebrated porcine nose-to-tail eating, there are also chapters called Top to Tail, featuring dishes that use all parts of the vegetable (Roasted Carrots with Carrot-Top Pesto and Burrata, for example) and A Little Beast Goes a Long Way, in which sweet potatoes meet bone marrow. It may not be orderly, but it makes for fun reading, as do the whimsical illustrations by Sun Young Park sprinkled throughout. I also enjoyed Bloomfield’s personal, sometimes confessional, tone. She shares cooking triumphs as well as mistakes, and readers may well find there’s more to learn from the latter.
If kale always tasted like this, I’d eat more kale. Deep, dark green and pleasantly garlicky, it’s great on pizza, pasta, or, as suggested by Bloomfield, stirred into polenta.
Salt-Crusted Potatoes with Herbed Vinegar
The technique for these potatoes is genius (in fact, a similar recipe is in Genius Recipes): Boil tiny potatoes in well-salted water until the water is gone. What’s left behind are perfectly cooked potatoes with a toasty, slightly salty crust. I ate them like candy.
|Kale Polenta||Roasted Carrots with
Carrot-Top Pesto and Burrata
|Tagliatelle with Asparagus
and Parmesan Fonduta
Photos by David Loftus