It’s hard to believe lobsters used to be plowed into farmland to enrich the soil. Because the price has gone up a bit since then, this article shares ways to take advantage of every flavor-bearing part of them. Sam Hayward discusses their history, varieties around the world, and selection. He explains size rules and delicacies, how females are the better option, what “shedders” are, and where to find them. He steams, poaches, and grills them, and offers tips on shelling them and how to avoid the areas where toxins might lie—even if they are the tastiest part, he says. Recipes follow for bouillion, lobster cakes, and chowder.