Paul Bertolli  shares his knowledge and appreciation of anchovies, an essential element of Mediterranean cuisine.  He tells us how they can fortify the taste of other foods without dominating them.  Anchovies garnish  the classic Provençal onion and olive tart  pissaladière;  enhance grilled steaks as a butter or coarse paste, and can provide a dip for a platter of  fresh, seasonal vegetables, leaving behind a delicious, though elusive, flavor.

Bertolli offers advice for stocking your pantry with anchovies, where to get them, along with how to temper their pungent bite;  how to store once opened; how to fillet and store salt-packed anchovies; and how to cook them gently for mellow flavor.

Recipes include: Anchoiade; Bagna Cauda;  and Leg of Lamb Stuffed with Anchovies & Tarragon. Rosina Tinari Wilson contributes wine choices for these recipes.