The classic
Leslie Glover Pendleton is a seafood expert who has written two cookbooks on the subject: Simply Shrimp, Salmon, and (Fish) Steaks and Simply Shellfish. Here, she shares her killer recipe for traditional clams casino—broiled fresh clams on the half shell under a crisp, buttery, bacon-and-sweet-pepper-infused breadcrumb topping.

The update
Patrick McGrath, chef de cuisine of New York City’s Joseph Leonard restaurant, successfully defies tradition with his modern version, which is a beloved menu staple. The dish features steamed clams in a spicy broth, garnished with big chunks of fried bread, crisp pieces of bacon, and fresh parsley.