If you’ve been baking cookies on inexpensive cookie sheets you grabbed at the supermarket, it’s time to hold your butter for something better. After baking more than a holiday’s worth of cookies on eight different brands of cookie sheets, we found that for just $10 more than you spent at the grocery store, you can upgrade to a cookie sheet that’s more roomy, bakes more evenly, and doesn’t warp in a hot oven.

We baked batches of chocolate-chip cookies, star-shaped Christmas butter cookies, and plain scones on eight cookie sheets, using the same oven for each task and using parchment only when the recipe specified. We used the conventional baking mode, not convection. We looked for even browning, minimal sticking, easy maneuverability, and appropriate baking time. We also checked for warping at high temperatures. In addition to the pans listed below, we also tested metal cookie sheets made by Kaiser, Emerilware, Ekco, and Vollrath.