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In the recipe for Portabello Mushrooms with Creamy Spinach-Artichoke Filling from Fine Cooking #114, we recommend removing the gills on the undersides of the mushrooms because they’re bitter and release a black liquid as they cook. It’s a good idea to do this whenever you use portabellos, whether the recipe calls for it or not. To get rid of the gills, just scrape them off with a table knife. Its rounded tip is great for getting to the hard-to-reach area under the edge of the mushroom cap.
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