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Article

The crazy seasons of the test kitchen

Turkey, hot off the grill.

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One of the oddities of working in a test kitchen is how out of whack we often are with the seasons.  In a perfect world, we’d be working a year in advance, but reality is such that we’re often only working a season ahead. We have a small staff, so we have to prioritize. This spring, for example, we made a big push to work on recipes for next spring that involved truly seasonal produce, like ramps and morels. But last fall, we weren’t able to get ahead on our holiday content for the upcoming season, and so it happens that this June, we’re cooking lots of Thanksgiving turkey dishes in the test kitchen. By July, we’ll be up to our eyeballs in Christmas cookies.

Being out of season makes grocery shopping challenging. Have you ever tried to find a fresh turkey in the summer?  How about a goose?  We’ve been hunting for both this week. After much phoning and running around (including the exchange of a turkey that was past its prime despite its sell-by date–ugh!), our poultry is finally in house, for this week at any rate. Today our efforts were rewarded with this lovely grill-roasted turkey. Mmm…so good.

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