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Beneath a two-Michelin-star restaurant in New York City’s Tribeca neighborhood lies a farm of a different sort. Farm.One, an indoor hydroponic vertical operation that grows more than 500 varieties of herbs, microgreens, and edible flowers, is the only farm of its kind in Manhattan. Grown without pesticides and herbicides, the produce, which includes harder-to-find plant varieties, is popular with many of the city’s chefs, not only for its quality and range but for its hyperlocal nature. A chef can request fresh borage, say, or tulsi basil and it will be delivered by bicycle to the restaurant in about 30 minutes.

Farm.One CEO and founder Robert Laing is an Australian-born entrepreneur whose interest in cooking led him from the use of exotic ingredients to figuring out how to grow them in a small space. With 1,500 square feet divided between the Tribeca space and another at the Institute for Culinary Education, he and his team have pushed the envelope of what can be done with water, nutrients, LED lighting, and a good deal of agricultural science.

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