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Maycoll Calderón

Chef Maycoll Calderón calls the food at his Mexico City restaurant, Huset, “cocina de campo” (country cooking).  It’s true that Huset (which means “house” in Swedish) is a homey place, and the dishes on the menu of the Venezuelan-born Calderón are rustic, but each is done with a tremendous amount of skill and flair. Almost all are cooked over a wood fire, from seafood like red snapper with sesame emulsion or grilled octopus with lentils, tomato, and chile de arból, to a roast chicken with chorizo and green beans. His mole has layers and layers of flavors, and his gnocchi with lemon cream, mushrooms, and parmesan is creamy and delicate.

Calderón learned from some of the best chefs in the business—Spain’s Karlos Arguiñano (Zarautz) and Juan Mari Arzak (Arzak), New York’s Jean-Georges Vongerichten (Jean Georges, and later Fern, at the St. Regis in Puerto Rico). In 2012 he came to Mexico City to open Vongerichten’s J&G Grill at the St. Regis Hotel there before eventually going out on his own and opening Huset in 2016.

From 2017 to mid-2018 Calderón extended his reach to Los Angeles, with restaurant Tintorera, which featured imaginative seafood dishes, like sweet, sashimi-grade Pacific yellowtail bathed in a citrus vinaigrette or Baja tuna tartare with jalapeño emulsion and chili oil. It was a short-lived venture, and now he is back at Huset full-time, inventing new dishes and firing up the grill. Huset was featured in Diners Club World’s 50 Best Restaurant Academy’s Discovery Series.

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