What is it?

These craggy bivalves are worshipped by conoisseurs but misunderstood by many. There are five major types of oysters available in the U.S.: the Eastern, European Flat (aka Belon), Kumamoto, and Olympia, and the Pacific.

Among these five species are many sub-varieties, which boast different flavors, shapes, textures and colors, depending on the conditions they are grown in. Appropriately, the common names of all these varieties, like wine appellations, signify where they’re from; well-known examples include the Bluepoint (from Long Island), Apalachiola (from Florida), and Tomales Bay (from California).

The best way to appreciate the different varieties of oysters is to eat them raw, but oysters are also good fried, broiled or grilled, and in seafood stews.

How to choose:

There’s a common belief that you should only eat oysters in months that have an “r” in them—in other words, not in the summer. It’s not so much that oysters in the summer are unhealthy, but since the creatures spawn in the summer, making them milky and soft, they’re not at they’re best, texture-wise.

At the market, look for oysters that feel heavy in the hand, with shells that are shut tight-a good sign that there’s a fresh, juicy oyster inside. Don’t eat any open oysters, even if they shut after being nudged, cautions Rowley. While oysters harvested the preceding day are ideal, those culled up to a week before are fine. If in doubt, ask your fish merchant to show you the shipping tag; by law, it must be marked with the harvest date and affixed to the shipping container.

How to store:

As soon as you get your oysters home, stash them in the refrigerator. Each oyster should have its convex side facing down (the more deeply cupped half holds the flesh and liquor). Drape a wet towel over them so the shells don’t dry out. Stored this way, the oysters will stay alive for up to a week, although the sooner they’re eaten the better the flavor.

If you have the fishmonger shuck the oysters for you, plan on eating them the same day.

Recipes

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  Moveable Feast

  Lamb and Oyster Stew

  Small Rappahannock oysters are good in this stew, but you can use your favorite oysters.

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  Moveable Feast

  Angels on Horseback

  Traditionally, angels on horseback are broiled bacon-wrapped oysters, but this version is served on the half-shell topped with ham and a fragrant herb butter.

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  Recipe

  Chinese Black Pepper and Shrimp Fried Rice

  You might be surprised at just how much heat freshly ground black pepper can bring to this dish. Green cabbage, corn, and cucumber add freshness and crunch.

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  Recipe

  Oyster Carbonara

  Taking classic spaghetti carbonara over the top, this dish pairs the pasta dish with crispy fried oysters, for unexpectedly delicious results.

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  Moveable Feast

  Grilled Oysters with Cajun Compound Butter

  If you need to store your fresh oysters, says Chef Stryjewski, put them in the refrigerator with a wet towel draped over them so the shells don’t dry out. And…

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  Recipe

  Oyster Patties

  “Patties” is something of a misnomer for this old-fashioned New Orleans dish, which is made by filling puff pastry shells with oysters and an herb-flecked bacon-cream sauce. The classic recipe…

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  Moveable Feast

  Death by Gumbo

  Gumbo begins with making a roux, a combination of oil and flour which thickens, colors, and flavors the dish. Chef Folse likes to strain his gumbo before serving it, but…

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  Moveable Feast

  Oysters with Chorizo and Fennel

  Chef Pete Evans adds Iberian complexity to his dish. A traditional mignonette of shallots, black pepper, and vinegar gets a note of saffron and olive oil. Chorizo is a nod…

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  Recipe

  Creamy Oyster and Shiitake Stew

  Silky and soothing, this soup-like stew is elegant enough for entertaining. To make it quickly, buy sliced mushrooms and shucked oysters. Serve some toasted or grilled bread alongside the stew,…

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  Recipe

  Oysters with Irish Soda Bread and Guinness Stout

  I have wonderful memories of being on holiday in Ireland and eating oysters with my family at picnic tables while looking out at the crashing waves. You can dress up…