A.K.A

shiang-gu, forest mushroom, oak mushroom, black mushroom, and black forest mushroom.

What is it?

Shiitakes have been cultivated in China and Japan for 2,000 years. In Japanese, shii means “from a hardwood tree,” and take means “mushroom.” In its fresh form, the shiitake mushroom has a rich, buttery, meaty flavor quite unlike thee flavors of other mushroom varieties. When dried, the shiitake’s flavors concentrate to a smoky richness.
The shiitake’s texture is also quite different from that of other mushrooms. A fresh shiitake is approximately 75% water, a considerably lower water content than that of many of its cousins. Less water accounts for shiitakes firm-even chewy-texture and intense flavor.
Dried shiitakes are versatile and affordable. Their meaty texture and smoky flavor is great on its own or paired with other varieties. Shiitakes are an obvious choice for Asian dishes, filling out soy-based braises or stews or perking up quick stir-fries.

How to choose:

Fresh: When shopping for fresh shiitakes, avoid those grown in a sawdust medium and opt for log-grown mushrooms. You can recognize a shiitake grown on outdoor logs: it has a dark brown cap that curves under and is nearly round. Ideally, attached to the cap’s underside is a thin “veil,” through which the gills are visible. The gills should be tightly formed and moist. Sawdust-medium shiitakes have flat tops, are drier, and generally lack the flavor of log-grown mushrooms.
Dried: When shopping for dried shiitakes, look for mushrooms with thick brown caps ridged with white.

How to prep:

Fresh: Shiitakes never come in contact with dirt, so the only washing usually necessary is a gentle wipe with a damp cloth or a paper towel. Use a knife to remove the stems where they meet the cap. The stems are too fibrous to eat on their own, but they make an excellent addition to the stockpot.
Shiitakes are quite good raw, if you don’t mind their chewiness. Sautéing is the most common treatment for shiitakes. One of the most important techniques for sautéing shiitakes is maintaining the sound of constant sizzling while they’re in the pan, which means you’re cooking them over lively heat. You want the shiitakes to develop a brown, crisp outside, which will boost their flavor.
Dried: Before using dried shiitakes in a recipe, even if it’s a soup or a stew, it’s best to rehydrate them in hot water. The stems tend to be woody, so trim them off and discard after soaking.

How to store:

Fresh: If you need to store fresh shiitakes, put them in the refrigerator and cover them with damp paper towels. They can last for as long as two weeks, but it’s best to eat shiitakes soon after harvesting.
Dried: To store dried shiitakes for a short time (a month or less), seal the mushrooms in an airtight container or ziptop bag and store in a cool, dark place. For long-term storage, seal the dried mushrooms in heavy-duty zip-top freezer bags and put them in the freezer where they’ll keep indefinitely.

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Recipes

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  Recipe

  Fettuccine with Grilled Asparagus, Shiitake, and Charred Lemon

  Savory grilled mushrooms lend a meatiness to this otherwise light and bright pasta. To get the most from your asparagus, trim just the very bottom of the stalks, and use…

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  Recipe

  Buttery Balsamic Corn with Shiitake and Grilled Onion

  While grilling the onion for this colorful side dish, throw some steak or fresh tuna on the grate as well—dinner, done.

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  Recipe

  Cavatelli with Shiitake Mushrooms, Asparagus, and Pesto

  Basil pesto and asparagus add spring-like color and flavor to pasta and mushrooms. If you can find fresh cavatelli, all the better.

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  Recipe

  Chicken, Shiitake, and Watercress Stir-Fry

  This stir-fry gets deep complexity from Chinese fermented chile-bean sauce, also called toban djan, which can be found in the Asian section of well-stocked supermarkets. The dish comes together in…

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  Recipe

  Braised Short Ribs and Celery with Celery Seed Polenta

  Short ribs and celery become good friends in this braise: As the celery cooks, it flavors the beef and the sauce while absorbing some of the beefy flavor of the…

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  Recipe

  Brussels Sprout and Mushroom Sauté

  Shredding Brussels sprouts is a great way to get their robust flavor in a quick-cooking side dish. You can often find packages of shredded sprouts at the supermarket; if not,…

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  Recipe

  Umami Bomb Mushroom Burgers

  This is an exceptionally "meaty" veggie burger, thanks to the deep, savory flavor in the mushrooms and soy sauce, the richness of the cashews, and the pleasantly chewy texture of…

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  Recipe

  Thai Spicy Duck & Pineapple Fried Rice

  Rich roast duck (available at an Asian market), fragrant basil and chunks of sweet pineapple make this quick dish a cut above your everyday fried rice.

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  Recipe

  Korean Soy and Red Chili Fried Rice

  This vegetarian fried rice doubles down on the soy with tofu and edamame (and sprouts, if you like). The sweet-and-spicy Korean chile paste gochujang gives it a kick.

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  Moveable Feast

  Stuffed Sirloin Roll With Michigan Cherries and Toasted Hazelnuts

  As an alternative stuffing to Swiss chard or kale, you can use very fresh beet greens or ramp leaves, as Chef Smith does. He likes the way the savory stuffed-…