Slow cooking is the secret to success with bagna cauda, the warm anchovy and garlic dip that is a specialty of Italy’s Piedmont region. There, diners dunk vegetables in a communal pot of bagna cauda (“hot bath”). Here, the pungent mixture is a sauce for steamed broccoli. You may need a flame tamer to keep the bagna cauda from burning. For this dish, it’s crucial that you choose your anchovies carefully. I like the meaty, oil-packed Agostino Recca anchovies from Sicily; they come in a glass jar (or salt-packed in large tins: these you must fillet and rinse).
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