Preparation

• Combine the vinegar, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, sugar, and jalapeño in a medium bowl. Whisk in the olive oil, sesame oil, and Tabasco. Add the salmon cubes and mushroom caps. Toss to coat evenly, cover with plastic wrap, and marinate for 1-hour in-the refrigerator, tossing occasionally. While the salmon is marinating, soak a dozen 12-inch wooden skewers in water.
• Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or heat a gas grill to medium high. (If your grill tends to be very hot, use medium heat, as the brochettes will cook unevenly if the heat is too high.) Remove the salmon from the marinade and loosely thread four salmon cubes alternating with four mushroom caps and four thin pieces of onion on each skewer. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper and grill or broil in batches until browned and the salmon is almost opaque throughout, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Test by removing one piece of salmon and checking it for doneness; it should still be somewhat translucent in the center. Transfer the brochettes to warm dinner plates and garnish with cilantro.

A fruity, medium-bodied red without too much tannin will pair well with the flavors of the grilled salmon and the sesame in the marinade. Try Castel de Remei Gotim Bru, a Tempranillo blend from the Costers del Segre region of Spain, or Domaine de l’Oratoire St. Martin Côtes du Rhône.