I heard about this dish from many members of the Tangier “literary set,” who told me the Moroccan writer Mohammed Mrabet had cooked it for them. Despite all the descriptions, I couldn’t figure out the recipe. Finally Paul Bowles, who had discovered and translated Mrabet, recalled the measurements for me from memory.
This recipe is excerpted from The Food of Morocco. Read our review.
In the Rif Mountains, Mrabet’s home, the people are individualistic and do things their own way—as in this recipe, where they rub cumin into the flesh of the chickens, a procedure unknown in other parts of the country.
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