Preparation

• In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Sauté the onion until it begins to wilt, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté just until fragrant. Stir in the wine. Add the tomatoes, oregano, and 1/4 tsp. salt. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, and cook until reduced by at least one-third, about 2 hours. Stir occasionally, taking care that the sauce never boils hard. Stir in the basil and parsley. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.

Puttanesca Sauce: Make the basic recipe. Heat 3 Tbs. olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add 5 chopped anchovy fillets and cook, stirring, until they begin to dissolve. Add the basic sauce and bring to a simmer. Stir in 1/3 cup drained capers, 1/2 cup pitted and chopped black olives, and 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes or to taste.

Porcini Sauce: Make the basic recipe. Soak 2 oz. dried porcini mushrooms in hot water to cover until soft, about 25 minutes. Drain and reserve 1/3 cup of the soaking liquid. Squeeze the mushrooms dry, chop them, and add them to the basic sauce. Strain the reserved porcini soaking liquid though a coffee filter and add it to the sauce. Simmer until thick and not at all watery, 15 to 25 minutes.