Slowly cooking scrambled eggs in a bowl set above gently simmering water requires time and a bit of stirring, but you’ll be rewarded for your patience with a sumptuously creamy scramble.
Pour 2 inches of water in a medium saucepan or double boiler and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low. Place a metal bowl on top of the saucepan or the top on the double boiler. Add the butter. Heat until melted.
Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a medium bowl. Whisk together the eggs, crème fraîche, 1 tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Pour the mixture into the double boiler and cook over barely simmering water, scraping the bottom and sides frequently with a rubber spatula, until the eggs are just set, 15 to 18 minutes.
Do not be tempted to increase the heat or the eggs will stick to the pan and become overcooked. Garnish with chives. Serve with the caviar and brioche, if using.
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