Preparation

On prep day

• Spray an 8-inch square baking dish with cooking spray.
• Shape the dough into a rough rectangle, and then divide it into 24 pieces, about 1 oz. each (it’s OK if they’re not completely even).
  
• Put the seeds in separate bowls. Shape the pieces of dough into balls. Roll 8 balls in each type of seed, and then transfer them to the baking dish in a random pattern. They should fill the pan, but gaps and overlap between rolls are OK. Don’t pack the rolls in too tightly. They need room to rise, so it’s also fine to make more than one layer.
  
• Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 and up to 24 hours.

On baking day

• Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F. Meanwhile, let the dough sit, covered, at room temperature. After rising, the rolls may not look much bigger, but they should be puffy.
  
• Remove the plastic and bake the rolls until the tops are browned and the internal temperature reads 195°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 45 minutes. Remove the rolls from the pan and cool slightly on a rack. Separate into rolls or serve whole and pull apart at the table.