This dish is just as much about the herb-infused broth as it is about the mussels. Take the time to pick out the nicest herb leaves, as they are the star of the show. I like to serve this dish with crusty bread to soak up every last bit of broth.
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil, and cook the rice noodles according to package directions. Drain, return to the pot, cover, and set aside.
Combine the basil, mint, cilantro, and scallions in a small bowl. Divide the mixture in half, reserving one half for garnish.
In a large Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat the oil over high heat until shimmering. Add the chiles, garlic, ginger, and 1/2 tsp. salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic starts to brown, about 30 seconds. Add half of the herb mixture, the celery, and 1/4 tsp. pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is combined and begins to turn bright green, about 30 seconds. Add the broth, sake, and mussels. Stir well, cover, and steam until all the mussels open, 5 to 6 minutes. Discard any mussels that do not open.
Divide the warm rice noodles between two large soup bowls. Divide the mussels and broth over the noodles. Scatter each bowl with the reserved herb mixture, and serve with the soy sauce, if using.
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